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Some of the fancier pieces were painted in several tones, with lighter tints on panels and darker, complimentary colors on frames. Also, pine was often painted to simulate the natural figure of more prestigious woods. A base coat was applied and then mottled, sometimes in conjunction with another tint or pigment, using a dry stiff-bristle brush, rags, feathers, combs or crumpled paper to achieve a grain-like appearance. Although with paint you don’t have to worry about what species of pine is used, the knots should still be sealed with shellac to prevent their resins from bleeding.

Although the colors aren’t authentic, flat latex paints can be used. Since they tend to raise the grain on raw wood, they simulate the look of milk paint better than oil-base paint, but a satin varnish topcoat is needed to provide a little luster. A scrubbed pine or limed look can be achieved by rubbing a thin, almost transparent coat of oilbase white paint on raw wood and sealing it with satin varnish. This finish compliments even the racy figure of yellow pine. The paint tends to soften the grain’s contrast, while the wood’s natural yellow tones mellow out the paint’s stark white pigment to achieve a rich, creamy beige finish.

Some of these are more difficult to find than others, but you should be able to find at least one of them where you live (and the others you can get from online lumber dealers). Regardless of which wood you use, here is one bit of advice that applies to them all. Use only the heartwood for outdoor furniture (and anything else you make for the outdoors). Sapwood is too rich in sugars and other tasty treats to survive very long in the wet, wild, and often warm wilderness out the back door. Fungi, the critters most responsible for decay, tear through sapwood, but have a much harder time with heartwood.

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